North Shore - First Winter Swell

Well, the first winter swell really hit today. At Indicators we could see that there was definitely some size. We drove past V-Land, lot's of cars and probably too big. We didn't want to climb the rock wall to see, so we kept going.

We looked at Sunset - way too big (2+ times head high sets, very steep), so we drove past Rubber Duckies - fun looking, but a bit sloppy. Coming around the Bay, we saw PinBalls with a crowd, and went on to Chun's. No one out at Chun's but Jocko's was big and scary (to an old man). We watched one big set come through and just clean out Chun's, so we went on around to Haleiwa. Sure enough, relative calm.

Puena Point had head-high slow rolling waves that were ideal for the geriatric set. There was no wind and the the waves were coming in long slow lines. We caught a few waves, and then my buddy thought he was having a heart attack - no really - so we took the next wave in. Well, no telling what ailed him, but he didn't die on me, so it ended up being a fun day.

We stopped at Pipe for a few minutes and watched on the way back. Every once in a while those trademark barrels made for some hootin' good rides. Well, my days of waves like that are well behind me. Ahhh, it is great to grow old (and fat, and bald) in Hawaii.