Chun's Reef

Well, today Chun's Reef was the place for an old long boarder. At noon, there was hardly any wind, the waves were head-plus high and really clean, and the crowd was small and mellow. My entrepreneurial buddy and I took an extended lunch and squeezed in a whole hour and a half of surf.

We drove past Sunset and the point was breaking well over head high; it looked fun, but a bit intimidating for old men, and the swell direction was odd. People were surfing the beach break and way over to the left of the regular point break. Rubber Duckies was almost breaking, but not quite. Chun's, however, was perfect. (They seem to be filming something there, so the crew trucks were taking up half of the parking.)

We paddled out (I had my Robert August/Wingnut 9'3" epoxy board), and joined just 6 other surfers in the line-up. and two were way inside the point break. One of the surfers was a girl, and all were totally mellow. They must have been from the mainland. Waves were plentiful and had enough size to be really, really fun. My buddy caught one of his "most memorable" rides (he gets one of those every few weeks or so). He caught it out on the reef and made it through three sections, all the way into the beach break (where three other kids were surfing).

I got a few rides myself... very, very fun. I love this place!