Blogger-Surfer Injured

Note the Eye Injury

Long boarding has its hazards. Yesterday, as I was taking off on a head-high wave at Chun's some barney who was paddling out decided to bail off and ditch his board rather than duck dive or turn turtle. Good for him - the wave didn't pound him a bit, but bad for me. I was just paddling INTO the wave to catch it, and his board shot up and whacked me in the eye. Only 5 stitches & a few broken bones inside the eye socket. Fortunately my eye is fine (or will be, once I can open my lid again).

Lessons learned:

1. Expect the most stupid actions of everyone around you.
2. People intent on saving themselves think nothing of anyone else.
3. Surfing is the last haven for the non-litigious. Some injuries just happen - forget the lawyers!