Another Giant Swell

I have no photos, but trust me, this last giant swell has been - well - giant. The west facing beaches (Sunset - Waimea) have been enormous - but too sloppy to ride. As a consequence there has been a lot of activity on the east where these Kona winds are off-shore.

It is really rare to see waves 3+ times overhead at PCCs and Chevrons. Middles was blasted by some really big sets as well- they were clean but unpredictable. There were 5 - 7 people out at virtually every one of the breaks between Hauula and Kahuku - a real crowded scene for this east side. Waves were breaking way out past Goat Island. This was pure wrap surf from the NW swell pummeling the North Shore.

There is a really good photo of last month's Eddie at the Honolulu Advertiser. (Thanks Sherri for the tip!) This has really been a great winter so far for surf. But since we know big waves, we really feel for the thousands that were caught unprepared for the Indian Ocean tsunami. There are few things as terrifying as being whacked around by powerful waves.

Classess begin tomorrow for the new semester. I've gotta get focused!